For decades, monosodium glutamate, or MSG, has been a polarizing topic in the food world. Once feared and shunned, this flavor enhancer is now experiencing a renaissance with progressively more people being willing to buck the bandwagon and openly talk about their use of it.
Let’s dive into the history of MSG, the controversies surrounding it, and how perceptions are changing. And we’ll find out how scientific evidence answers the question, “is MSG still bad?”
The Origins of MSG
MSG’s (and umami’s) story begins in the early 20th century with a Japanese chemistry professor named Kikunae Ikeda. In 1908, Ikeda was curious about the rich, savory flavor of kelp broth—a staple in Japanese cuisine. Through his research, he identified the source of this flavor: glutamate, an amino acid that naturally occurs in many foods and is also produced by our bodies. When glutamate interacts with taste receptors on our tongues, we experience a savory taste, which Ikeda dubbed “umami,” meaning “pleasant savory taste” in Japanese.
Ikeda managed to isolate glutamate and combine it with sodium to create a stable, crystalline form of the substance—what we now know as MSG. This granular umami became a popular seasoning in Japan and other parts of Asia. By the 1920s, MSG had made its way to the United States, initially finding a market in Hawaii, where many Japanese immigrants had settled.
MSG’s popularity continued to grow, particularly after it began to be manufactured in the U.S. in the late 1930s. By the 1940s and 50s, MSG was widely used in canned, frozen, and processed foods. The U.S. military even explored its potential to improve the flavor of combat rations. At the same time, Americans were being introduced to new “ethnic” dishes, including Asian-inspired fare, which sometimes contained MSG.
The Backlash Against MSG
Despite its widespread use, MSG’s reputation took a sharp turn in 1968 when the New England Journal of Medicine published a letter—not a research study—that described adverse symptoms a physician experienced after eating at Chinese restaurants. The letter speculated that MSG, cooking wine, or excessive salt might be to blame, and the phenomenon was quickly dubbed “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome.” The public backlash was swift and severe with MSG being singled out as the culprit.
This negative perception of MSG was not just about health concerns—it also had racial undertones. Chinese restaurants, in particular, were unfairly targeted despite the fact that MSG was widely used in many types of cuisine and processed foods.
This backlash led to decades of skepticism and fear surrounding MSG with many people avoiding it altogether.
Health Authorities Answer the Question “Is MSG Bad?”
In the years following the initial misinformation, numerous studies were conducted to investigate the claims against MSG. Scientific organizations from around the globe then reviewed those studies to re-examine the ingredient’s safety. The consensus among health authorities, including the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), was that MSG is safe. While some individuals may report sensitivity to MSG, these reactions are rare and in response to extremely large doses of it being eaten on an empty stomach. The reactions are often not reproducible under controlled conditions.
This makes sense since glutamate is a substance that our bodies naturally produce, and our bodies cannot distinguish between glutamate we eat and that which we make. That makes it highly unlikely that the glutamate from MSG would cause adverse health effects when consumed in normal amounts.
The Changing Attitudes Toward MSG
In recent years, there has been a noticeable shift in attitudes toward MSG. As global flavors continue to influence the American diet, there is a growing interest in authentic cuisine. Rather than relying on Americanized versions of international dishes, more people are exploring traditional recipes that often include MSG or similar umami-rich ingredients. As home cooks experiment with these flavors, they are discovering that MSG can enhance their dishes without the negative side effects once feared.
At the same time, prominent chefs have started to speak openly about their use of MSG, helping to normalize it and dispel lingering myths that MSG is bad.
This shift in attitudes is reflected in the update the Merriam-Webster dictionary made to their Chinese Restaurant Syndrome definition. A disclaimer that the term is “misleading and potentially offensive” was added to the entry. And, the International Headache Society removed MSG from its list of headache triggers after research failed to find a significant connection between MSG and headaches.
The perspective change was also captured in a series of surveys done by MSG manufacturer, Ajinomoto. In their 2018 survey, 52% of Registered Dietitians agreed with the statement, “I believe MSG is safe to eat,” and in a 2022 survey, 76% agreed. Likewise, the agreement with that statement changed from 62% in 2018 to 80% in 2022 among culinary users and went from 45% to 56% among general consumers.
A 2024 survey by Ajinomoto showed those viewpoints have continued to shift. In it, 26% of respondents said they avoid restaurants that use MSG, and 20% of respondents avoid Chinese food entirely due to their concerns about MSG. This aligns with the experience of people of Asian descent living in the US as 29% of them reported personally experiencing the stigma of Chinese Restaurant Syndrome in the same survey. Clearly, there’s room for even more improvement.
The Future of MSG
The letter to the editor was written at a time when Americans were less likely to evaluate their biases and were more fearful of other cultures. Many Americans now feel more open to evaluating the roots of their presumptions, and question whether this seasoning that was feared by the older generation is truly problematic.
Earlier this year, Ajinomoto and several healthcare professionals sent a letter to the New England Journal of Medicine asking that they acknowledge the impact that the letter they published had and the historical injustice it created. They are still waiting on a response.
While skepticism around MSG lingers, the tide is turning. As cultural attitudes evolve and more people embrace diverse cuisines, MSG is being re-evaluated and appreciated for the umami flavor it provides.
